Neve Ilan, Israel
An eerie silence hung in the air as thirty-plus American youth spilled onto the empty freeway. College students released from the classroom instantly became little children again, piercing the silent night with whoops of freedom and shouts of laughter. Who can blame them? Running about where automobiles usually engulf the pavement at high-speeds is everybody's secret childhood desire--especially for many of the students who were off the reserve for the first time.
The only thing more unusual than the completely vacant highway was the fact that the highway wasn't actually closed--the road, though empty, was completely open; the on and offramps neither restricted nor blocked. For the out-of-town Americans, it was a sight to see on this atypical school night. But for the inhabitants of the city refraining for motorized transportation, it was a special night.
Three thousand years ago, this night and the following day were observed as the holiest day of the year, the peak religious day for a people who did the utmost to live up to their calling to be holy. This night began a 24-hour period of fasting, prayer, and repentance for a people whose yearly atonement fell on this one day--one day to be free of sin; one day to be reconciled to Him who called His people out of the wilderness. This day is so crucial to these people that it has been observed nearly every year since its institution, from tent to temple to synagogue--from a time of wandering to established monarchy, to provinces under foreign rule to a scattering around the world, to a reunited statehood in the motherland. Throughout the storied history of these people, this night has remained the most important night of the year.
The chaperones shushed us for the umpteenth time. Exuberance in the streets is not the most appropriate activity for such a solemn time, they said. While we ran wild in the streets, countless Israelis were gathered in their homes, soul-searching and examining their hearts in preparation for this appointed time of atonement.
While only thirty-percent of Israelis affiliate themselves with some sort of religious sect, Yom Kippur, this ancient day of atonement, is still ingrained in the Jewish mind, and the vast majority of Israelis still participate in its celebration. Although Yom Kippur is the "chreaster" of Israel, the observance of the holy day is taken seriously.
Yom Kippur is treated as a special Sabbath day, thus all shops are closed and work is prohibited, including the operation of motor vehicles. The day is spent in fasting and prayer as synagogues across the land meet to purify their hearts before their God. Forgiveness and repentance is abundant as people seek forgiveness from God so they exercise forgiveness with those around them. Other traditional rules of observance include abstaining from leather footwear, bathing, and marital relations--all of which are an extension of fasting, in order to "afflict yourselves" as it is written in the Torah. Giving to charity is also a part of the anticipation and participation of Yom Kippur.
The Americans scattered as several Arabs roared down the empty freeway. It seems only the unobservant were on the freeway that night. Several minutes later, patrolling police sent the boys and girls off the highway for the night. From the empty freeway, all we could see was a large national holiday. But in homes and synagogues across the land, and even around the world, this is an long-running covenant that is just as alive and well as the people who celebrate it.
Completely open but vacant freeways aren't something you witness everyday. Neither is ancient traditions celebrated by an ancient people in their ancient land.
